The coastal Malaysian city of Kota Kinabalu lies in Sabah State on the northwest coast of the mysterious island of Borneo, facing onto the South China Sea and overlooked by soaring Mount Kinabalu. An increasingly popular tourism destination, especially for ecotourists, it's the gateway to the island-focused Abdul Rahman National Park and the remote interior of the Malaysian region of Borneo. The city itself has much of interest to visitors, especially on its outskirts, with beaches, bird sanctuaries, protected areas, quaint villages and mangrove forests.
One of the joys of this region of Malaysia is its heritage of multi-ethnicity, especially evident in its cuisine. Kota Kinabalu is a gourmet's paradise with its melting pot of Chinese, Javanese, Filipino, Malay, Brunei and European flavours and recipes creating speciality dishes served in kedai kopi eateries all over the city. Western-style fast food joints are easily shunned here! Outdoor food stalls line the beachside promenades, and coffee shops in the streets backing the ocean all serve delicious varieties of traditional cuisine at budget prices.
Those with deeper pockets should head for the seafood restaurants adjacent to the pier and the open-air fish market, although those set between the fish market and the Filipino Craft market are for tourists with no taste and should be avoided. For an upscale evening dining experience, try one of a choice of restaurants in SEDCO Square. For a unique eating experience, wander into one of the ‘eat-with-your-hands' traditional banana-leaf eateries for delicious curries and fried fish. If you're dropping more than you're digesting, spoons and forks are provided on request!
International restaurants here include Chinese, Indian, loads of Italian options, steak houses and even English breakfasts, with a full list of Western food on the menus in all Kota Kinabalu City Centre hotels. However, to experience the full impact of local cuisine, Malay food is a must. The city's open-air night market, close to the waterfront, holds a world-famous food court offering a treasure house of Southeast Asian tastes and speciality Malay dishes. Plastic plates, chairs, tables and acres of plastic sheeting create the ambience, bustling with crowds of locals as well as visitors. Believe it or not, bargaining for the price of a meal is the done thing here – just watch the locals and you'll get the gist!
Rice and noodles are the staples here, flavoured with coconut milk, anchovies, peanuts, a spicy chilli paste, aromatic herbs or roots. Beef, halal chicken and pork (for non-Muslims) features in curries, stews and many Malayan dishes, similarly to Indonesian cuisine. Seafood here is a main ingredient, fried, spices or served with delicious sauces based around Rempah, a spice paste sautéed in oil and resembling Masala. Ikan Pari, barbecued stingray, sounds foul but tastes great, as does the coriander-based sour fish stew, Ikan Asam Pedas. Fresh vegetables are available year-round, as are tropical fruits, with Khui Talam, a moreish steamed layered coconut pudding a favourite dessert.
Shopping is as varied and exciting as eating in Kota Kinabalu and, as with foods, the best bargains are found in the street markets. The Gaya Street Fair, held every Sunday, is a huge, sprawling mass of stalls selling local and Asian handicrafts, sarongs, batiks and wood carvings, open between 06:00 and 13:00. If you're searching for Sabah artefacts, the waterfront Kota Kinabu Handicraft Market offers pearls and crystals as well as traditional artefacts. The city is divided into small town and village areas, with each having its own regular flea market, known as tamus. For people-watching, local life and purchases off the tourist trail, these are the places, especially good for orchids and traditional items. In every market, bargaining is essential and fun.
Lek Boonlert is an editor and content reviewer at DirectRooms and is responsible for all Kota Kinabalu City Centre Hotels content.
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